Sea Monsters Abound at the Tip of the Triangle
By Scott Leon
Anyone who has ever been to Bermuda would find it hard to believe that the island was once known as the "Isles of Devils" and avoided at all costs. This remote cluster of islands and surrounding reefs spelled disaster for passing ships. Shakespeare referred to the islands as the "vex't Bermoothes," and even the island's discoverer and namesake, Juan de Bermudez, wrecked his ship on its reefs in 1503.
Still, most people are probably most familiar with Bermuda as a honeymoon or golf vacation destination (it does have more golf courses per square mile than any other place on earth) or as the northernmost point of the Bermuda Triangle.
The famous pink sand beaches and the tales of pirate exploits are legendary, but Bermuda harbors another side. From May through September, white and blue marlin cruise the Challenger and Argus Banks, feeding on the ever-present schools of yellowfin tuna. And every season, sea monsters with bills invade the Bermuda Triangle.
Mention big-fish destinations in the Atlantic, and places like the Azores, Canaries, Ghana, Brazil, Bom Bom and Madeira pop into mind. Somehow Bermuda often is overlooked on that list, even though the island is home to the second-largest marlin ever caught in the Atlantic and fish between 600 and 1,000 pounds are practically a given each and every season in these waters.
Bermuda's best year to date remains 1995, when over a three-week period Capt. Allen DeSilva weighed in a 1,352-pound blue and Capt. Alan Card weighed in two more fish over 1,100 pounds. While the rest of the fishing world was taken by surprise, those few in Bermuda who regularly chase big marlin knew it was only a matter of time.
A Virtual Oasis
Bermuda consists of a string of 150 islands sitting right in the middle of the Gulf Stream about 600 miles off the coast of North Carolina. The seven main islands are all connected via causeways and form the bulk of the land mass generally referred to as "the island" of Bermuda. These islands cover about 21 square miles (about the area of Manhattan) and spread no more than 2 miles wide. When visiting this tiny island oasis in the middle of the Atlantic, you'll be hard-pressed to escape the island feel despite its cosmopolitan atmosphere.
The island itself is a former British Colony, and British formality still pervades all aspects of daily life here. Most hotels offer high tea in the afternoon, and most restaurants require "smart casual" attire at minimum. Of course, in all but the most formal situations, the famous Bermuda shorts are always acceptable. And you have to like a place where even the government officials get to wear shorts.
For those so inclined, Bermuda offers activities from shopping to exploring caves and forts, as well as the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. Every conceivable water sport is possible somewhere on the island, and its beaches and golf are unparalleled.
The climate in Bermuda is as close to perfect as it gets. Average summer temperatures remain in the 80s, and the infrequent rains are brief and refreshing. Because of the Gulf Stream, the water temperatures vary little, which helps stabilize Bermuda's subtropical climate and ensure a reliable fishery.
The infamous reef, which surrounds reasonably shallow water, rings the north side of the island. Eons of pounding by waves against the red coral reefs gave rise to the pink sand for which the island is famous. The inside of these reefs features some of the most incredible diving to be found anywhere, with innumerable reef fish and hundreds of ancient wrecks spread across the shallow ocean floor.
On the south side of the island, the water drops away fairly quickly and gives way to a rather featureless bottom until you hit the major ledges at the Challenger and Argus Banks. Because of the proximity of the Gulf Stream to these banks, these waters are some of the richest to be found anywhere in the Atlantic.
Any Excuse Will Do
I'll admit I had an ulterior motive when I suggested that my wife and I go to Bermuda for our honeymoon. It was right after Allen DeSilva had boated his 1,356-pound blue, and I had been on a grander quest for some time. Despite my better judgment and fishing instincts, however, I decided I would fish only one day - after all, it was my honeymoon. I decided to fish with De Silva on his 53-foot Jim Smith, the Mako 4 (soon to be replaced by the new 57-foot Carolina DeMako), and I immediately had visions of my grander greyhounding behind the boat.
Now, I'd be the last one to suggest you book a single day to fish anywhere if you are serious about catching marlin, but I figured I had nothing to lose because these waters were so productive. Early in the afternoon, with only one other billfish raised so far, the giant purple shadow I'd dreamed about finally parked itself right off the transom. After a little maneuvering, she took the short right bait, and I somehow managed not to lose her on the hookup. After dogging me for about an hour and a half and coming to leader three times, she ended up spitting the hook next to the boat just as mate Dean Jones was about to tag her. She was by far the biggest fish I had ever caught; DeSilva estimated her at around 800 pounds. That's when he looked at me and suggested we go catch a real fish - and that's the reason I return.
I've been back fishing since, and I still haven't caught my grander, but half-ton fish aren't everyday occurrences even here. However, for those willing to settle for smaller fish, marlin between 200 and 500 pounds are routine in these waters from June all the way through September. Your best shot at truly big fish occurs in July and August. Capt. Card has five grander-plus-size fish to his credit, and DeSilva has several as well. And although Capt. Russell Young hasn't caught his grander yet, he has come very close.
Of course, the fact that you can count the island's experienced big-fish skippers on one hand hints at one reason Bermuda hasn't yet caught on as a monster mecca. And the fact remains that Bermuda's fishing tourists often are more interested in just bending a rod against the island's numerous game fish than they are in trolling around looking for giant blues. Often reaching better than 100 pounds in the spring, Bermuda's yellowfin represent great sport in their own right. Large wahoo and dolphin are also common, especially in fall and winter.
Such concentrations of game fish make my one-fish day somewhat rare by Bermuda standards, but even that's not bad when you're hunting sea monsters.
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